The hardest part is deciding where it goes. The rest takes about five minutes.

Every framed print and canvas hangs on a wire across the back, so it needs one fixing in the wall, not several. What that fixing is depends on what your wall is made of, and how big the print is. Here's how to work both out.

Hold the print where you want it and step back. As a rule, the centre of the image sits a little above eye level, over furniture the bottom edge wants to sit roughly a hand's width above a sideboard or sofa back, and out of direct sun to keep the colours true.

To get the height exactly right: lift the wire upward as far as it stretches, and measure the gap from the top of the frame to the wire. Mark your centre point on the wall, then measure that same gap up from it. That higher mark is where your fixing goes, so the print lands where you pictured it, not sitting high.

Hanging a few together? Cut paper to the size of each print, tack it up with reusable adhesive, and shuffle until the layout feels right before a single fixing goes in.

Press on the wall and knock it.

• A hollow sound means plasterboard, the thin sheeting in most modern walls.
• A solid, dull sound usually means brick or masonry, common in older Australian homes.
• A stud is the timber framing behind plasterboard. A stud finder, or a phone app, will locate one. They sit roughly 45 to 60cm apart.

Two easy ways, neither needs a drill.

The simplest is a push-in claw hanger, like the 3M CLAW from Bunnings. You mark the spot, push it into the plasterboard with your thumbs, and hang. No tools, no pilot hole, and it pulls out later leaving only a pinhole. They come rated for different weights (7kg, 11kg, 20kg), so match the rating to your print's weight in the table below, with a little to spare.

The other is a self-drilling anchor, the Ramset WallMate (the metal version, rated to 10kg). It winds straight into the wall with a screwdriver, no drill needed:

1. Screw the anchor in until it sits flush.
2. Drive the screw in, leaving the head out a few millimetres, or fit the hook over it.
3. Rest the wire on it and slide left or right until level.

One fixing, one wire, done.

If you find a stud where you want the print, you don't need an anchor at all. For smaller prints, a single picture hook tapped in with a hammer holds it. For the larger sizes, drive a screw into the stud instead (a drill or screwdriver makes that easy), and hang the wire over it.

You'll need a drill with a masonry bit and a wall plug.

1. Drill a hole to match your plug, just deep enough to sit flush.
2. Tap the plug in level with the wall.
3. Drive a screw into the plug, leaving the head out, and hang.

Larger prints weigh more, so they ask for a stronger fixing. The simple version:

One thing worth knowing: a claw or anchor is only as strong as the wall it's in. The ratings assume sound plasterboard. If your walls are old, damp, or already patched, they may hold less, and that's the part none of us can see from here. For the larger, heavier frames especially, match the rating to the weight with room to spare. The team at Bunnings can point you to the right fixing, and if you're unsure about the wall itself, a local handyman can take a look. Better than guessing with a heavy frame.

Canvas is lighter than a framed print of the same size, so the same fixings apply with room to spare. Match the claw rating to the weight as above.

Two honest options. A framed print can lean, on a shelf, mantel or sideboard, and looks at home doing it. Or choose a rolled print, which frames lighter and gives you more flexibility down the track. Adhesive hooks aren't reliable at framed-print weights, so we don't recommend them for framed work.

Stand back, check it's level by eye, nudge the wire if it isn't. Then leave it. You'll stop noticing the fixing within a day and start noticing the view.

When it's up, we'd love to see it. Send us a photo any time.